My India stories just kind petered out, huh? Well it turns out I had a wonderful last weekend in India traveling around and then promptly got direly ill for my last 3 days of work. So, between recovery and waiting to get pictures from other people and being banished from the computer as Brie works on NaNoWriMo, I’m just getting to writing about the rest of my trip

Mahabaleswar
Saturday morning Lori, Cliff and I trekked down to Mahabaleswar. Mahabaleswar is a hill station, which is a tourist destination located high in the hills or mountains. Hill stations are very popular in the region.

The trek was about two and a half hours, which sounds like an awfully long drive for a day trip, but the beautiful drive through the mountains and small towns (along with my iPod) made for a very pleasant drive.

Mahabaleswar is renowned for having some of the best strawberries in the world. Unfortunately we were there about two weeks before the harvest, so we couldn’t verify the claim. The main tourist draw seemed to be a fair-like area, with horses and boats to ride and a manually operated ferris wheel that looked like it was responsible for most of the area’s tetanus incidents.

We skipped past the tourist area and had our driver take us around to the look out spots at the top of the mountains so we could walk around and enjoy the view. The views were incredible, and with the rainy season just recently ended everything was lush and green. There were a few distant waterfalls that I imagine were lot more impressive closer to the rainy season.

I got to ride a horse for the first time in my life from one lookout point to another, but for the most part we walked with the occasional car ride to the next area. We passed a lot of Indian tourists on the paths, many of which asked us about where we were from and were very curious about us in general.

Here I noticed that there is almost no wildlife in India other than the various beasts of burden, birds and monkeys there is no other life to be seen. At one point we saw a chipmunk, and the locals seemed to be just as surprised to see it as we were.

As the day started to wind down we started heading back to Pune. Our driver took us to a temple (I believe Ganesh’s daughter). Nobody really spoke English there so I wasn’t quite sure what to do other than take my shoes off and not take pictures. So we just stood inside reverently for a few minutes as people poured in and out with their offerings and prayers.

Our driver was anxious to start the trip back before dark, so we decided to head out. He did stop at a town about half-way back in the mountains that was having a small festival. We finished out our day watching the sunset over the mountains while other attendees unsuccessfully attempted to paraglide on the plateaus.

Karla Caves
The next day was our last free day in India and we were being joined by some new coworkers, including our boss. We wanted to stick with something a little closer than Mahableswar since we figured our new arrivals would be a little tired. So we decided for a more conservative drive to another hill station, Lonavala.

Unfortunately after arriving at Lonavala it was clear that it was not going to be a great destination. The weather was much warmer and most of the area had already started to dry out and lose it’s color. At our first stop we were accosted by some very committed sales-children who more or less repeated the same sales slogan for their food and drinks constantly until we left the area. We decided to abandon Lonavala and make for the nearby Karla Caves, a 2,000+ year old Buddhist cave.

While we were driving we got to see something that is surprisingly rare in India, a car accident. It was just a small fender bender, but what was really of note is how they exchange insurance information. That is, they don’t really have insurance there so what generally happens is they settle car accidents by beating the crap out of each other.

We arrived at Karla Caves and found it completely packed. It turns out that there was a holiday celebration going on at the base of the mountain, below the parking area for the caves. The layout of the caves were similar to those on Elephenta Island in Mumbai. There was a long series of step stone steps lined with vendors until you get to the holy area at the top. The sounds of drums and other music carried up the mountain from below. The caves were split into two sections: one that appeared to be simply carved out rooms and beds for the monks, and the second separate section that had the ornate religious carvings (see pictures below).

In the holy area there were some women chanting around a small fire in some sort of ceremony. I wasn’t able to find anyone who spoke enough English to ask what it was for. There were also several children trying to toss coins onto one the largest carving in the cave. I asked and they said that if they could get the coin to stick up there they would have good luck.

Most of the adults must have been at the party below, because the area was covered with children, and they were all interested in us. Several groups of children asked us to take their picture, followed us around asking questions about us and generally showing off their English speaking abilities. At some point a toddler walked up to me, seemingly out of nowhere, and extend his hand for a handshake. I obliged and all of the ten children that were following me suddenly also had to shake my hand as well. It was a very sublime experience to be just completely adored by some many children.

Some of us were interested in attending the celebration below, so we asked our driver how to get down there. This was the first time it was recommended that we not go somewhere by ourselves. Our driver said the people had likely been drinking all day and that it wouldn’t be safe without him, and he’d have to stay with the car to make sure it wasn’t damaged. So instead we retired to dinner and ended our last free day in India.

I think that I must have been too active and had too little sleep as I wound up getting very very very ill the next day. I wound up leaving work early to alternate between shivering with a high fever and sleeping for the next 24 hours and then getting ready for my trip home.

Turns out I missed some exciting political Indian drama while I out. There’s a political party in the region that’s against other areas of India taking jobs in their region and promotes violence against those that do. The party leader was arrested that day and the party members protested by throwing rocks and lighting things on fire and throwing rocks that were on fire. Luckily it’s a small political party and things didn’t get too out of control, but it was alarming nonetheless.

Other than my illness I had an amazing trip and had I not gotten sick I would have definitely wanted to go back just for fun. There are so many stories that I just don’t have the space to tell. Other than our hotel, the food was great and the people were wonderful. I was especially impressed at how family oriented everyone is. After getting sick I’m not so sure that I am excited to go back. I guess we’ll have to see how well I did training people to see whether or not I will be going back for work someday. Now I just need to wait for some good weather to break out my new cricket bat.

(Apparently I bought a cricket bat.)

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The 3 hour driver from Mumbai to Pune was interesting. It’s almost like a dystopian future. The actual country side, now several weeks out of the rainy season, is green and lush and dotted by gorgeous mountains. There appear to be people just about anywhere, seemingly miles from civilization. It was very common to see improvised shacks of sheet metal or cardboard. Towering above all the poverty are billboards advertising mega multi-high rise living communities. The juxtaposition is very jarring.

The poverty in Pune seems to be more severe than in Mumbai, though I still feel completely safe in the environment. I think the inability to move between classes in India has removed any sense of entitlement in its people, which seems to make everyone here more civil than the U.S., for what it’s worth.

If driving in Mumbai is organized chaos, then driving in Pune is just chaos. In Mumbai there were at least lanes. They were suggestions instead of mandatory, but they were present. Yesterday our drive home hit a snag when the congestion on the road we were trying to turn onto was so bad that the 2 way road had become a 1 way road.

Twice we’ve had to pass flocks of sheep on the road.

The campus of the company where we’re working is gorgeous. It’s surrounded by mountains at the back and large enough that the company leaves hundreds of bikes unchained for employees to ride around on (the only way onto campus is via security gate, so there’s no way to steal the bikes. Though I’m not convinced anyone would.) We’re hoping to snag a few for a trip out to the security gate today. Don’t expect a picture of me on one as most of them are pink or purple.

I’ll try to get some pictures, but want to make sure I’m not tackled by a security guard.

The expansion on the campus is ridiculous. New buildings are going up everywherToday there is a small grove of bamboo trees that wasn’t there yesterday and overnight they cut holes in the median in the roads to allow for better pedestrian traffic.

The town is mostly industrial, so there’s not much to do. There’s not much shopping available other than a few very Western department stores. Not that we’ve had much time as we’re usually getting out of work at 6:30. Most of our evening have been spent trying new restaurants.

We’re hoping to get out and doing something either cultural or fun (hopefully both) over the weekend. One of my engineers invited us to his wedding, but it’s two weeks after we head home.

Namaste

It’s been trying, I’ll not make any claim otherwise.

Some key moments so far:

1. Dinner at Donatos this weekend: Hayden spilled his orange drink, and we packed things up to go home. He didn’t want to get his new booster seat wet, so I stripped him down and he rode home half-naked. We forgot to take a picture for Daddy, so Hayden made me promise next time we’d be sure to.

2. Last night, I was late picking them up (made it in plenty of time for school closing, but not for any bit of a normal routine for us). Hayden wants to go for a walk. I grimace. What about dinner? Hayden demands he isn’t that hungry, even after I promise left-over pizza. Gabe certainly is, though… so I ponder… We get home, I heat up some ravioli, grab a rice cake and a sippy cup of milk for Gabe, a granola bar and an apple for Hayden, pack Gabe into the stroller with a tray, and we go for a walk to the park. Once at the park, we play for a bit, Hayden gives me a near heart attack or two with some of his jumps, and I forewarn him when it’s close to time to head home. Ask him to be ready after one more slide, he goes, jumps one more time, and heads to the hill. Mom who is there with two little ones as well is very impressed, and even tells me so. *grin*

3. He’s been singing songs that I know, but don’t know (If you get that, you know that I am NOT the music expert in the house. I’m lucky if I can tell him what artist is playing in the van’s CD player at any given time.) Tonight’s seranade was “I like to move it, move it.”

4. Tonight there was a melt down at school because I wouldn’t let him go across the building to go to the bathroom in his normal class by himself. I finally picked him up, carted him out, seatbelted him in the car and turned around to pick up Gabe. There was crying that he would pee himself, and I was so done that I was ready to just clean it up when we got home. I told him as much.

Guess what? He didn’t pee himself. In fact, he was able to hold it as we had to turn around to pick up his lunch bag that had been forgotten in the drama and then made it all the way to McDonald’s for dinner. Don’t worry, I made him get apples instead of french fries… okay, not really, it was his choice.

5. Hayden apologizes for his “tantartam temperature.” I correct him. “Will you help me say it, momma? Tem*per tan*trum. I’m sorry for my tem*per tan*trum.”

6. We get home to the answering machine blinking and I play it. No, McCain, you won’t be getting my vote. Old message comes on, from Kris. Gabe’s response? Points to the machine, “Dadadada!”

7. Bedtime: Gabe asleep, Spideman-Iron Man-Hulk comic book, Toy Story book and There’s a Monster at the End of this Book read. Hayden says he doesn’t feel well, “all over.” “Get some sleep, kiddo, you’ll feel better…” And then, my four-year old asks for… wait for it… his placebo medicine. So I get him is medicine cup, go to Mommy and Daddy’s bathroom for the stash of placebo medicine, bring it to him. He sits up, a very appreciative look on his face. He drinks it, and then asks me to get him some water. Never mentions how similar the two taste.

I can’t wait for Kris to be home.

Mumbai is completely amazing. We had two goals for our one free day, do some shopping and see the Hindu carvings on Elephenta island. Cabs in Mumbai charge flat rates. Our driver, Ramesh, would’ve have charged us 800 Rps per destination (2,400 Rps total) or 2,000 Rps for the entire day. So, we rented a cab for the day.

According to Ramesh we saw the entire city, and considering we spent ~5 hours in the car I’m inclined to believe him. I’m not even sure how to explain the entirety of what we saw, so I’ll break it down by numbers.

Mumbai is a large city (21 million people).
On the average city block there are:

• 500 people along the street, generally families
• 15 people selling fruit
• 10 peoples pushing individual carts, laden with food or materials
• 5 stray dogs
• 3 goats
• 2 water buffalo
• 1 cow
• 1 completely awesome sight
• 1 completely heartbreaking sight

Driving:
Driving in Mumbai is organized chaos. There are lanes, but they’re really more guidelines than rules. If a road has three lanes in one direction there are usually five vehicles sharing that space (one or two of which are bicycles or motorcycles). Ramesh stated a good car in India needs two things: “A brake and a horn”. Drivers honk as they swerve around or merge between to let other drivers and pedestrians of their intentions. It is common for a driver to merge between two vehicles leaving only inches on either side, sometimes with one vehicle being oncoming traffic. Ramesh was a super hero. He seemed to know every inch of his car. Amazingly we never saw a single accident, though it seemed inevitable on many occasions.

People:
I should point out that the people of Mumbai are among the nicest in the world and we were hard pressed to find someone who didn’t speak English. Everyone, with the exception of shop keepers trying to sell you something, is ridiculously polite. Even the scam artists are nice. There is obviously a lot of poverty in the city, but nobody seems to act downtrodden. The city itself is dull and depressed, but the people are as bright and cheerful as their clothes.

Our journey through Mumbai:
We had Ramesh take us to a recommended shopping area. This turned out to be mostly generic clothing and goods, and not what we were looking for, so we asked to continue on to The Gateway of India, which is where we’d catch a boat to Elephanta Island. One the way we passed various iterations of the above averages, several different local markets.

Ramesh pointed out a market where you can buy any pet, either the normal kind or monkeys or elephants. He took us to the world’s largest manual washing machine, which is a large serious of stone basins filled with water where many people are hand washing clothes. He pointed out the slums and the new high rise buildings being built by the government to give new housing to those who need it. He even pointed out the red light district as we passed.

We eventually reached the Gateway of India and purchased a ticket for the ferry to Elephanta Island. Our dutiful driver waited behind for the 4 hours we’d be gone. On our way to the ferry we were stopped by someone claiming to be a holy man, who blessed us by tying a red and yellow ribbon around our wrists and anointing us with a third eye. We were grateful for the blessing until he asked for money. I’m not entirely sure if this was a scam or not, but considering how many people would later offer us free things and follow up with requests for money, I’m inclined to think it was.

We spent over an hour on a very slow ferry ride to the island. When we got there it was early afternoon and the temperature had passed 100 degrees. I’m not sure that we thought our cunning plan through. The island consists of a flat 1/4 mile of unprotected stone walkway, followed by a steep 1/4 climb surrounded by trinket booths. After that you’ve arrived at the main cave on the island, filled with gorgeous Hindu carvings. I was pleased to remember about 5% of my art history class from college.

After that you’ve got another 1/4 climb up much less even stairs to Cannon Hill, the top of the island and location of large cannons the Portuguese put in place to defend the waterways. I wasn’t particularly interested in the cannons, but figured it was worth the rest of the trek for the view. The view was impressive, but the experience was the more worthwhile.

The other reason I wanted to go to Elephanta Island is because I owe Hayden some pictures of monkeys, and the monkeys run wild on the island. They walk around people all day, eating whatever fruit or leftovers they can find; and what they can’t just find they will steal. Early on we witnessed a monkey run at someone carrying a bag and try to tear it open to steal the contents. He almost got it.

I think my favorite moment of the trip was when a monkey charged at Lori’s water bottle and she screamed at me to take it since I was tall enough to hold it out of the monkey’s reach. I must have stood holding the water bottle at maximum vertical arms length with the monkey hissing at me for a minute before walking away. That was certainly a unique experience.

We returned to the ferry around 5 p.m. and watched the sun set/burn through the smog over Mumbai during our slow ride back. We found our driver around 6:30 p.m. and struggled though heavy evening traffic until arriving back at our hotel around 8 p.m.

I’m sorry we only got to spend one day in Mumbai, even though we were able to pack in so much in that day. This is only a fraction of the stories we saw. I would love to visit again some day.

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We arrived in India late Friday evening (Friday afternoon time back home). The process of getting to India was very easy. Our flights were on time, I was unmolested by security. Flying business class gave us access to a hundred movies and chairs that fully recline into beds which made the 16 hour flight pass surprisingly quickly.

We had to wait an unusually long time to get our luggage, but were picked to skip customs in India, so we considered that a wash. We stepped outside to find the hottest weather we have ever encountered. It was only around 90 degrees, but with 70% humidity. We quickly found the car sent from the hotel and basked in the air conditioning.

After a short drive we arrived at our hotel, called loved ones, ate a late dinner and crashed.

The next day we got to explore Mumbai by ourselves. That is an amazing story that’s going to need it’s own post.

But now we’re off to Pune to get settled in before our training.

Tomorrow I leave for a two week jaunt to India to train engineers who are taking over for my old position. I’m both nervous and excited. I am looking forward to experiencing a completely different culture, but I’m a little nervous about leaving Brie with a one year old and a four year old for two weeks.

Luckily my parents should be here for half of the time I’m gone.

Also, I’m nervous about having to talk for 8+ hours a day for seven business days. It’s very likely that when I get home all conversations in the house will be done via text for a few days.

It figures that I’ll be missing the first birthday party that Hayden was invited to,
but we picked up some disposable cameras for him to take pictures of anything interesting that I’m missing.

I’ll be armed with a camera and a laptop, so I intend on sharing anything interesting with you. Also I owe Hayden some pictures of monkeys.

Connectivity may be an issue at times, so for those that are curious as to whether or not my plane lands and such, check my twitter feed.